his travels wrote: "It is of such an excellent taste that it surpasses in flavour all the
other fruits
of the world..." Professor Alfred Wallace, a botanist specialising in the study of
tropical fruit
before the days of the steam ship, asserted that "the taste of durian is worth the travel
to the Far
East".
Both mangosteen and durian are native to South East Asia and require a year round,
warm, very
humid, equatorial climate. The durian tree is very large. Picking the fruit is not
required, as they
fall when ripe. This is quite dangerous; the fruit is covered with hard spines and
weighs several
kilograms. Overripe durians split along lines of natural weakness which are faintly
visible among
the spines. To open a durian, insert a stout knife into such a line. Durians have
about five
segments, each containing several seeds and these are surrounded by a custard-like
aril. Freshly
fallen fruit are less pungent and may taste best.
Without refrigeration the fruit has a shelf life of only 2 -5 days. Fermented durian,
wrapped in
palm leaves, remain palatable for up to a year. The preparation is called "tempoya" in
Indonesia
and is a popular side dish. They may also be used mixed with rice and sugar to make
"lempog",
or minced with salt, onions and vinegar, for "boder". Durian seeds may be roasted in
hot ashes,
or cut into slices and fried in spiced coconut oil. They are eaten with rice, or mixed
with sugar
to make a sweetmeat. Half-ripe fruit are used in soups. The durian is not only a meal
to the
lover, but has in fact the requisite food values. Though the fruit has much waste, it is
very filling
and high in proteins, minerals and fats.
To choose a durian, pick a fruit which is comparatively light and who's stem
appear
big and
solid. When shaking a good durian, the seed should move. Maturity is indicated
when the
middle of the fruit exudes a strong, but not sour smell. Finally, an inserted knife
should come
out sticky -this is the best indication that the fruit is ripe. Cut fruit perishes fairly
rapidly. Avoid
fruit with holes: worms may have prior claims.
The durian provides a meal without preparation, and for some, a rich dessert
too. The fruit
is suitable for the preparation of milk based foods, such as milk shakes, ice cream and
custards.
Both durian and mangosteen are still rare outside South East Asia, and they will
remain expensive
when available. The ripe mangosteen is dark red and tastes best if harvested before
turning
purple or blue-black. It does not ripen post-harvest. Unlike many other tropical fruit,
which
have a somewhat musky flavour (a liking for which is acquired), the mangosteen
appeals to
almost all, without a "learning" period. The mangosteen would be a popular choice as
the finest
of all fruit. The fruit is the size of a mandarin. The outer skin is up to 8mm thick and
rich in
tannic acid, which makes the fruit insect resistant. To open the fruit, cut through the
skin only,
and lightly pull and twist the fruit apart. Experienced mangosteen eaters use their
thumb to pry
out the dried flower parts (sessile stigma) and then break the fruit open.
About a third of the fruit is edible and this part consists of 4 to 8 white to pinkish juicy
segments. The precise number is indicated by the remnant flower parts on the front of
the shell.
A greater number of segments reduces the chance of seeds. Seeds can be boiled or
roasted and
eaten. The fruit's taste is delicate, sweet-acid, and the pulp seems to melt in the
mouth.
The fruit will keep for a few days without refrigeration. Storage at 10ºC is ideal
and
extends shelf life to about 20 days. Refrigeration causes cold damage. To minimise
this, wrap
fruit in newspaper and store it in the upper part of a refrigerator, but away from cooling
coils.
Freezing the fruit whole is also satisfactory. Purple mangosteen trees have only
female flowers
and pollen fertilisation is not required. The fruit contains up to three "seeds". These
are
composed of reproductive female flesh, which could still germinate when cut apart.
Trees are
very slow growing and rarely fruit before they are ten years old. Additionally, the
cultural
requirements are stringent, further reducing the supply of fruit.
The yellow mangosteens are much easier trees to grow and
bring to fruiting
than the
(purple)
mangosteen. There are several species of yellow mangosteen, including the
mundu
(G.
dulcis), the kochin goroka (G. xanthochymus) and the
asam
gelugur (G.
atroviridis).
They are frequently extremely sour fruit, and perhaps the ultimate test
for the
miracle
fruit. When cooked with plenty of sugar to counter the acidity, these fruit produce
an
excellent pie. Other Garcinia species, have less to recommend them
as
a fruit
tree;
the imbe (G. livingstonei) is small fruited, has a large seed and
a little
sour
flesh.
Recipes
| 5 durians 500ml sugar |
Scoop the durian pulp from the rind. Heat pulp in a saucepan and stir. While stirring, pick out the seeds, then add the sugar and mix well. Continue stirring until the mixture coagulates. Remove from heat and wrap in some "breathing" wrapping -traditionally palm leaves. These cakes will keep for up to one year. From Malaysia |
| 750ml dried green peas 2ml salt 750ml water 200ml brown sugar durian pulp from around 6 seeds 130ml sago |
Soak peas in salted water overnight. Boil peas in water until they become soft, add more water if required. Boil brown sugar in 250ml water, add to the peas. When peas reach boiling point again, add the durian pulp and mix well. Add sago and boil for a few minutes. From Malaysia |
| 150ml butter 200sugar 4 eggs, separated 120ml durian pulp 300ml SR flour |
Beat butter and sugar till light. Add egg yolks, beating well after
adding each
yolk.
Beat in durian pulp. Beat the egg whites to a stiff froth, then fold into the mix.
Gently fold in the flour. Bake in a greased tin for 60 minutes at 180ºC. |
| 1 sweet crumb crust II 40ml gelatine 60ml water 4-6 sliced yellow mangosteen 500g Philadelphia cream cheese 1 can cold condensed milk 300ml thick cream |
Stir gelatine in water, heat gently in microwave oven on low, or on
a stove
until
dissolved. Briefly blend mangosteen slices and set aside. Beat cream cheese, add condensed milk, continue beating for 2 minutes. Add cream and beat again until the bulk has doubled. Add dissolved gelatine to the mixture, pour into the prepared crumb crust and refrigerate. |